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222 mm x 146 mm, softcover, 128 pages
RRP: R195, ISBN 978-1-4152-0081-0
Publication date: October 2009, Category: Travel
Description
The most recent offering by traveller Sihle Khumalo. 150 years separate Khumalo from that other explorer of Africa: the Englishman John Hanning Speke. Speke set out to “discover” the source of the Nile, and Khumalo to figure out what the hell Speke and men like him were after.
Khumalo’s 2008 journey to Central Africa was not without its challenges. First he had to outperform his famous earlier trip and book Dark Continent My Black Arse. Then he elected to travel, as before, by public transport only. Which in practice often meant more transit and less transport.
Giving himself a mere four weeks, and propelled by a frank fascination with the Victorian explorers, Khumalo set out on a six-pronged quest aiming, inter alia, to ferry across Lake Tanganyika, stand on the equator in Uganda, bungee jump at the source of the Nile, or see if any mountain gorillas were forthcoming (none were).
But it was his emotive visit to the Memorial Centre at Kigali, epicentre of the Rwandan genocide, that brought home elemental questions: What is at the heart of Africa? What makes me an African? Where lies my centre?
Heart of Africa is the unputdownable account of a journey that seldom went as planned. Khumalo’s unfailing eye for the good, the bad and the amusing in Africa, his refreshing candour and his sheer cheek, make this book every bit as delightful as its forerunner.
From Heart of Africa, page 31
At 18:30 the railways official opened the main door which lead through the first-class reservations office to the platforms. A board at the side of the reservations office announced that the Victoria Falls-bound train was departing from platform four at 20:00. Even though there was no prebooked seating in third class, I couldn ’t understand why some people were running and others walking very fast towards the train, given that there was still an hour and a half before the time of departure. So I continued sauntering at a leisurely pace as people rushed past me.
Their behaviour made sense when I eventually got to the train. The first reason was immediately obvious: there were bad coaches and there were awful ones, and it was to your advantage to get there first and pick yourself a bad one. The second reason dawned on me a bit later: people wanted to sit next to the window so they could rest their heads on the sill during the night because the seat backs were too low for you to rest your head. A third reason appeared only when it was too late: people walked up and down the aisle all night, making sleep impossible for anyone sitting on an aisle seat.
To read on
What others say
I can’t imagine a better guide into the heart of Africa than Sihle Khumalo – a no-nonsense traveller, an astute observer, a lover of people and a man with a fine sense of humour. Where to next, Sihle?
— Max du Preez
Read Percy Mabandu’s article in the Mail & Guardian.
Read James Mitchell’s review in the Star.
Read Adriaan van den Berg’s review in Volksblad.
To buy this book
www.exclusivebooks.com
www.kalahari.net
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